We have listed many questions that we receive below. Please feel free to email us or call our shop with any other questions you may have regarding your glass needs.
•single strength (less than 1/16") - normally used in picture frames, etc.
•double strength (1/8") - used in storm windows, picture frames, insulated units, etc.
•3/16" - used for small table tops, insulated units, small shelves, etc.
•1/4" - used on table tops (as protective covering), insulated units, single-pane windows, lightweight shelves, framed shower doors, etc.
•3/8" - used in shower doors, table tops, glass walls, door lights, etc.
•1/2" - used for shower doors, table tops, glass walls, glass partitions, etc.
•3/4" - used for glass doors, store fronts, etc.
•Seamed Edge: In this application, after the shelf is cut, the edges are sanded to remove the sharp edges. This is to make sure the glass shelf is safe to handle.
•Flat Polish Edge: In this application, the edges of the glass shelf have been polished to a smooth shiny finish.
•Pencil Polish Edge: Popular with circle or oval shapes, the side edge is rounded for a softer look.
•Beveled Polish Edge: In this application, the edges of the glass shelf are cut and polished in an angle with a specific Bevel Width to produce a certain "look". This process leaves the glass shelf thinner around the edges and thicker in the center. The Bevel Width around the glass shelf can range in size from 1/4" to 1 1/2" and is specified by you.
•Acrylic (Plexiglass) glass: A lightweight but strong acrylic material.
•Polycarbonate (Lexan) glass: A tough, transparent thermoplastic.
•Laminated (Safety) glass: Made by adhering multiple pieces of glass together using high heat and pressure. The inter layer created by this process holds the glass pieces together, providing more resistance against breakage.
•Tempered glass: Tempering is a special process applied to glass that ensures if the glass is broken, it will shatter in large chunks rather than thousands of razor sharp shards.
Apache Glass & Mirror has a one year warranty on installation of your glass unit and drip rail vinyl. After one year we will adjust your door for the cost of a normal service call. Replacement drip rail vinyl is also kept in stock and are available for purchase.
Glass breakage is not covered under the one year warranty.
Sliding & Swinging Doors: Hitting any unprotected bathroom obstruction or metal or glass component of the shower door itself could lead to glass breakage or serious injury.
Towel Bars, Handles and other accessories are in no way considered to be grab bars or other bracing or fall prevention mechanisms. The intent of these accessories is to facilitate proper operations and esthetics of the unit.
Shower Doors are Not Watertight: Depending of the type of shower door selected, shower enclosures will protect areas outside of the enclosure from water damage under normal shower conditions to varying degrees. Excessive water pressure or directing the shower head or hand held sprays directly at doors or joints can result in leaks. The amount of water that can escape your shower varies by the type of shower as well. Heavy glass units with no or limited vinyl seals will allow water to escape under normal conditions. In general, the more metal and seals in the unit, the more water protection will be achieved. Besides providing anti-slip protection, bath mats are a common solution if minor issues exist.
Shower doors and windows are set using clear silicone. Silicone will be dry to the touch within thirty minutes to an hour. But this does not mean that the seal is ready for cleaning! Before being exposed to moisture, silicone must cure. And even though many people use the terms cure and dry interchangeably, there is a world of difference between the two.
- Drying refers to the initial (and generally rapid) process in which water and moisture evaporate, leaving the silicone dry to the touch.
- Curing refers to a more complex (and slower) process of chemical changes that occurs after silicone is exposed to oxygen.
The silicone sealant takes about 24 hours to cure completely. After this point your glass can be safely cleaned and exposed to water, moisture, and other conditions of normal use. Please note that we make every effort to clean your shower door or windows after installation however it is impossible for us to remove all fingerprints or smudges before the silicone has cured. You can safely do a final clean of your installed glass application after 24 hours. If you have hard to reach windows that need cleaning please feel free to reach out to us for a recommendation of a local window cleaning company.
One of the most common questions we are asked is how to keep a shower door clean. EasyClean10 can be purchased as an option on your new shower door. EasyClean10 comes complete with a 10-year warranty. This will ensure that your new glass is protected and will be easy to clean for many years to come.
EasyClean10 Glass Treatment permanently bonds to the substrate and protects it against dirt, grime, soap scum, staining, etching, and discoloration. Similar to a non-stick fry pan, EasyClean10 is optically clear, repels both water & oil based substances, and makes the surface easy to clean.
To properly care for EasyClean10 Glass Treatment, rinse regularly with water and squeegee dry after each use. To keep your glass looking new, clean each week using a damp microfiber cloth and a mild detergent to remove any soap scum, dirt, or grime. An example of a mild detergent is Dawn Liquid Dish Soap, the same as you would use to clean your dishes by hand. Other acceptable products include:
- Lysol 4in1 Bathroom Cleaner
- Fantastik Orange Action
- Green Works Natural Glass & Surface Cleaner
- Clean Shower Daily Shower Cleaner
- Mr. Clean Magic Eraser when damp
Although these cleaners can be used and will not harm the coating, EasyClean10 is designed to be an easy-clean coating and any cleaning products should be rinsed with clean water immediately after use.
Never use any rough, gritty, abrasive, highly acidic, or highly basic cleaners as they will damage the EasyClean10 coating on the glass. Examples include Comet (powder), Ajax, cerium oxide, muriatic acid, or lye. These substances will damage the coating, and potentially the glass.
HARD WATER AREAS
For water with a higher concentration of minerals, lime and calcium may build up on the protective coating that are not easily removed with a mild detergent. A solution of one part white vinegar to five parts water (pure vinegar is recommended for significant buildup) should be sprayed on the glass and allowed to soak for several minutes. This will begin to dissolve the minerals that have built up on the surface, repeat as necessary until the glass is clear. A damp microfiber cloth should then be used to wipe the glass. For extreme hard water conditions we recommended using the vinegar & water solution every week to reduce the build up on the surface, and preventing significant deposits over time. For extreme build up, pour vinegar directly on a new soft sponge and wipe until the minerals are gone, then rinse and dry.
Shower Door Glass
Once your new shower enclosure is installed, we recommend using regular Rain‑X® or Rain-X Shower Door Water Repellent. With regular use, water will bead and slide off and help prevent hard water stains, soap scum and grime build-up on your glass shower door – keeping it looking clean for weeks!
In addition to Rain-X, squeegeeing the glass frequently, then drying with a soft cloth is highly recommended. Using a squeegee after each shower helps keep spots and scale from accumulating on glass components. In between applications of Rain-X, we recommend cleaning the glass regularly with a glass cleaner while following the recommendations of the Bath Enclosures Manufacturing Association (BEMA). Avoid abrasives, bleach, acidic or vinegar based cleaners and scrubbing pads. Read labels on cleaning products thoroughly before using.
A short list of cleaning agents that should be avoided because they either damage the metal or scratch the enclosures glass surface includes:
- Abrasive or soft abrasive powders and liquid
- Bleach or bleach based cleaners
- Steel or Teflon pads
- Do not use bristle brushes
Aluminum, Brass and Stainless Steel Components
– Silver, Gold, Brushed Nickel, Satin Silver and some Oil Rubbed Bronze/Dark Bronze –
Most of the silver, gold, brushed nickel or satin silver metal components of your shower door are anodized aluminum or electroplated brass or stainless steel. Aluminum is a lightweight, non-rusting metal which is anodized to give color and to make shiny. Anodizing also seals the aluminum to guard against corrosion and pitting. Electroplating is a process similar to anodizing.
Some glass and lime scale cleaners can damage anodizing and electroplating, causing pitting or discoloration. You can permanently damage the metal’s finish if improper cleaning compounds containing alkaline and phosphoric acids are used. The result can be the appearance of white spots and discoloration. Many products’ labels warn against use on anodized and plated metals. Read labels on cleaning products thoroughly before using on your shower door. Drywall, spackle and tile grout, which contain lime, can also spot metal and glass surfaces.
We recommend "Sparkle" Cleaner. It works great for those glass cleaning jobs too tough for spray-on cleaners. It removes light water spots and stains in glass and also removes soap scum from shower doors and ceramic tile. Wipe on with a damp cloth or paper towel, rub stained areas, then wipe off. We keep "Sparkle" in stock at our shop.
- DUST frames with a soft cloth or feather duster.
- CLEAN with a soft, water-dampened cloth only, using a light touch.
- WIPE dry gently. "Scrubbies" should not be used on or touch the frames.
- DO NOT SPRAY ANY HARSH CLEANING PRODUCT on the frame or near the frames. Spray all vanity, mirror and faucet cleaners on a rag to prevent the solvents from coming in contact with the frame. Should a cleaner or solvent come in contact with the frame, wipe off immediately with a damp cloth.
- DO NOT use glass cleaner that contains ammonia.
- DO NOT use painter's tape on the frame. This may remove the finish of the frame.
Please note that any frame-wood, plastic or MDF-will be damaged by incorrect cleaning methods.
This is a question we get asked a lot. We do not purchase customer's used shower glass doors, tabletops, mirrors, shelves, etc. All our glass we provide to the public is new, scratch free, and made specifically for each customer's project. Although, your glass may look perfectly fine, because of the nature of our custom work, we will not reuse any glass from the public. We will, however, dispose of our customer's old glass provided it is brought to our shop. If you would like to schedule a time for us to pick up your old glass then you will have to pay for a service call.
Fogging between panes of glass means the seals have failed. This is fairly normal for most double paned or "insulated" windows at 5-10 years. When windows fog and fail, the only viable option is glass replacement. At Apache Glass & Mirror, we do not replace the frame...just the glass.
Why do insulated windows lose their seal? The leading causes of failure are:
- Seals breaking down from exposure to water. Windows without the proper safeguards to keep water from puddling around the perimeter seals will fail sooner.
- Excess heat and sun exposure. Heat causes the panes to expand and contract, and it softens and weakens the seals until they develop a crack in their armor and allow moist air in.
- Old age. Even the most elastic, flexible seal can't last forever. Eventually a seal will allow moisture to enter the window.
Can you explain what Low-E coatings are?
Low- E stands for low emissivity. Windows with low-E coatings reduce the amount of heat that is transmitted through the glass. Many homeowners have experienced sitting next to an older window and felt either excessive heat or an extreme chill; Low-E coatings were invented to reduce these uncomfortable scenarios. What exactly is a Low-E coating though? Low-E coatings are made up of a series of nearly invisible layers of various materials and rely on one or more silver layers to reflect exterior and interior heat.
But, how do Low-E coatings work?
Low-E coatings reflect heat (both solar and ambient) to keep a home cool in the summer and reduce heat from escaping the interior of a home in the winter. The goal of a Low-E coating is to improve total home comfort, with the added bonus of reducing energy costs. Low-E coatings keep heat where homeowners want it and reduce it from entering where they don’t.
Condensation is the collection of water vapor as a visible liquid or haze on a surface. Excess humidity and water vapor either inside or outside a home may cause window condensation. The difference between Indoor and outdoor temperatures determine the amount of condensation that forms on a window. Warm air can contain significant amounts water vapor compared to cool air. Once moist warm air cools, the water vapor within remains trapped. If the temperature reaches the dew point (the point when water vapor condenses at a certain temperature and pressure) it will condense on a glass pane as droplets and/or fog. Excess long term condensation may cause mold, mildew, and rot. Condensation may also stain the glass surface and window frame.
Depending on the time of year, condensation will occur on the interior or exterior glass surface and frame. Interior condensation usually forms during the winter when a home is being heated. As outdoor temperatures drop the inside glass surface will also cool. If there is excess humidity in a home, condensation can form on the cool glass surface. Good air circulation and the removal of objects that cause humidity will reduce the chance of interior condensation.
Exterior condensation forms most often during spring and fall when temperatures and weather fluctuate greatly, and days after clear calm nights. This characteristic seasonal variation will often cause condensation to form in the morning hours when the outdoor temperature increases. As temperatures rise in the morning, a window will remain cool from the night before due to the low heat transfer of energy efficient windows. As the temperature increases, so does the dew point; this creates a temperature difference between the cool window and the moist warm outside air. The difference will cause water droplets and/or fog to form on the glass surface. While unsightly, exterior condensation is not considered a problem and will dissipate as the glass and frame warm.